THE LIST:
Masking:
- Try to make the walls (esp. SL) less wiggly without getting in the way of Noah's lighting shots
- Move the #1 Legs from Lineset #4 to Lineset #6 and clamp them to the Show Portal
- Move SR #1 Leg onstage to overlap with the Show Portal
- Clamp Border #1 to the top of the Show Portal (it makes shadows)
- Fix Proscenium Masking so that it doesn't look so bad.
Walls:
- Wall B's cables need to be blacked because they are downstage of the border. Spray Paint? Gun Bluing? New Picks with black cable?
- Sconces should be complete on Monday. Talk to Nick about their placement on the walls.
- The designers still think that Wall A looks pringley. Perhaps take it past plumb?
- Brace Wall D for the placement of a Big 35# Fresnel to be hung centered on the doors
- Fix hole in Wall B on the lower SL section
Doors:
- Door Plate: Find thicker aluminum to replace the flashing.
- Install handles (after new aluminum is found/attached)
- Made plates (rosettes, but rectangular) for the US door knobs. Talk to Nick about size.
- If the plates are big enough to cover the holes, re-set the door knobs to be even.
- Finish attaching hinges
- Door Stop installed
- Latches. Talk to Nick about which piece (door or stop) he wants to have the sticking out piece of the latch attached to for the top of the door. My preference is for the inset plate to be on the door and the protrusion to be on the stop.
Railings:
- Investigate further inset of the plate (US end of the upper rail)
- Weld angle on... talk to Ben Carter about schedule
- Stabilize... talk to D &/or K about that, preferably after the angle is welded on. shims?
- Toe rail t-nailed on
- Clean them?
Platforms:
- Upper platform: 2x4 capping the off-stage end of the beam and the studwall
Chandelier:
- Padding around the structure to prevent it from banging?
- Trim and spike the In and the Out for both the chandelier and the bare bulb.
Spinning Stairs:
- Order cylinder, needle and check valves, and teflon tape.
- do we need regulators in the circuit?
- Discuss mounting with Kevin
- Figure out the facing/toerail/flashing situation
- Kickplate
- Flipper support
- Hinge
- how much do those things weigh? any guesses or should i just do the math?
Its a list alright, but not unreasonable. Still lots to do.
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2 comments:
Be careful clamping the goods to the scenery that you don't attach it in such a way that people acting wind up ripping it. Clamps only, no pins - and make for damn sure people remember you've done it come strike.
"Wall B's cables need to be blacked because they are downstage of the border. Spray Paint? Gun Bluing? New Picks with black cable?"
Marker? Bun blue won't work now, too annoying. Spray paint is unpopular amongst many people. I don't think its worth doing new picks. You are sure you can reach them, yes? Paint, marker, friction tape...
"Made plates (rosettes, but rectangular) for the US door knobs."
escutcheon
>>Be careful clamping the goods to the scenery that you >>don't attach it in such a way that people acting wind >>up ripping it.
How do I know if they will rip it? I know that I wouldn't rip it, but will they? Should I just talk to Adrienne about it?
>>Clamps only, no pins - and make for damn sure people >>remember you've done it come strike.
I know no pins, I've had that lecture from you before. :)
If they are big and orange and part of pre-strike is that good enough for making sure that it is remembered by people come strike?
>>Marker? Bun blue won't work now, too annoying. Spray >>paint is unpopular amongst many people. I don't think >>its worth doing new picks. You are sure you can reach >>them, yes? Paint, marker, friction tape...
What is this friction tape you speak of? That sounds the easiest, and way less time consuming than a marker, even if that marker were a Magnum 44.
>>escutcheon
A what? And how do you say it?
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